Broad Brook (and Beyond)

If you're a frequent driver of Connecticut back roads, you're probably familiar with the experience of suddenly coming upon an unexpected town or village. There's always something a little bit incredible about "discovering" an entire, fully realized place that's not far from where you live but that somehow has managed to elude you for years. I felt this way when I stumbled over North Stonington Village, and when a detour led me to the center of Chester, and when I first happened to drive through Broad Brook, one of the five villages that make up the town of East Windsor. No matter how many times it happens, I always feel slightly abashed for not knowing about the place earlier. But that feeling of shame is quickly eclipsed by one of "Hey, this should be a blog post!"

Because the building above really deserves to be in a blog post, don't you think? The former Ertel/Geissler Barber Shop, it used to be located on Main Street in Broad Brook until 1967, when it was moved to the grounds of the East Windsor Historical Society in Scantic.

The Historical Society's main museum is housed in this building, once the East Windsor Academy or Scantic Academy. (There's more about it on my Instagram account devoted to historic Connecticut schoolhouses.)

And then there's the wee East Windsor District Probate Court building, moved here from Warehouse Point. It was also apparently a doctor's office at one time. Like the barber shop, it was transported to its current location on the back of a truck.

The Historical Society grounds are also home to this barn, a reconstituted tobacco shed turned farm tool museum. The Grange sign once hung on the Academy building, when it was used as a Grange Hall.

In Broad Brook itself, the roadside curiosities continue. This is the Broad Brook Garage, an old gas station (front building) and auto repair shop (rear building.)

There's also the Broad Brook Library, built in 1919. The library's Facebook page describes the building as "unassuming" and says, "It is easy to pass the Broad Brook Library without even noticing it." I disagree; in fact, I distinctly remember that the first time I drove down Main Street in Broad Brook, I thought the library looked particularly adorable.

And of course there's the village's best-known attraction, the 1892 Opera House. The history of this building reads like a whirlwind tour of the history of business in Connecticut. It was built by the Broad Brook Woolen Company and the first floor was used as their showroom and shipping department until the 1920s, when it was occupied by an ice cream parlor, newsstand, shoe store, and post office. In the 1970s, it housed an insurance company. Meanwhile, the second floor was used for "operettas, stage plays, graduation exercises, minstrels, military balls, dances, card parties, basketball games, town meetings, election voting, and meetings for civil defense during World War II." In 2003, it became a theatre that is now used by the Opera House Players.

Across Depot Street from the Opera House, water from the Broad Brook Mill Pond tumbles over a dam and continues under Main Street. On the other side, it reappears as (you guessed it) Broad Brook, which eventually joins the Scantic River, which then empties into the Connecticut River, which bisects the state, passing other unexpected villages as it flows along.

Windsor Locks Canal Trail State Park

There are places you can't fully grasp until you look at them on the map. The Windsor Locks Canal Trail, which stretches 4.5 miles from Windsor Locks to Suffield, is one such place. The trail follows the old towpath of the Windsor Locks Canal, built to bypass the Connecticut River's Enfield Falls and completed in 1829. It is, essentially, a narrow road running between the river and the canal, past peculiar ghosts of industries past. And by definition it should be, apart from the beauty of fall's last burst of color and the intriguing glimpses of islands and currents on the river, pretty boring. It is, after all, nothing but a flat straight line.

But look at it on the map, and see how that narrow wisp of land stretches on and on, cut off from the world by water on both sides, and you begin to appreciate the almost eerie experience of walking it from end to end. You can go forward, or you can turn back, but you can't exit, and you can't make another choice. Until you reach the south end, with its looming textile mill buildings, or the north end, with its leafy park, you can only be here, between the still water and the flowing water, on a strip of dirt and pavement.

Is it creepy? Yes, in a way, and fall is the season for creepiness, after all. But it's also fascinating, and occasionally remarkably beautiful. 

5 of Connecticut's Best Bridges

EAST HADDAM SWING BRIDGE

I have a bit of a love-hate thing with bridges. Some bridges, I find terrifying (there's no logic to it, but having skyway or spillway or causeway in the name doesn't help.) Other bridges are a pleasure to cross. And then there are the bridges I'd drive a day out of my way to avoid - I mean seriously, who invented this nightmare - but love watching other people traverse on YouTube.

But even though I usually wish I could magically transport my car to the opposite riverbank using the power of my mind, I can't deny the appeal of a bridge. It's not just that they literally take you to places you'd otherwise need a boat to reach, or that they symbolically represent the connection between sometimes very different places. It's also that they often look striking, lending a place an atmosphere it wouldn't otherwise have, and that they're a built-in alert message to bored drivers: Hey, something new and different might waiting for you right over there, on the other side.

I chose these five Connecticut bridges with some very simple criteria: they had to be attractive to look at - as you're crossing them as well as from below; they had to have some interesting facts, trivia, or history associated with them; and they had to lead to a place (or places) worth visiting in its own right. I could have chosen many other bridges with different points to recommend them, such as walkability or age, so if you have a different favorite, do leave a comment below.

East Haddam Swing Bridge (Connecticut River, East Haddam - Haddam)

It's not often that traffic comes to a dead halt at a seemingly random time of day and no one minds because the cause for the hold-up is so darn charming. It pretty much only happens when a line of fuzzy ducklings are crossing the road or when the East Haddam Swing Bridge is swinging. The truss bridge carrying Route 82 across the Connecticut opened to traffic in 1913. Since then, it has pivoted to allow boats to pass, while trapping motorists either in the quiet beauty of Haddam or in East Haddam's intensely picturesque town center.* According to East Haddam's website, which lists the bridge as an attraction, the "899-foot long bridge is reputed to be the longest of its type in the world." And its timing isn't quite random; it "opens to recreational traffic on the hour and half hour and on-demand for commercial barge traffic."

On the Haddam side, you'll find small villages where the distant past feels like just a little while ago and hidden history everywhere you turn. In East Haddam, there's the Goodspeed Opera House (I recently saw my first Goodspeed production and highly recommend the experience), Nathan Hale Schoolhouse, restaurants, independent shops, historic homes, and quite a lot more.

Mystic River Bascule Bridge (Mystic River, Groton - Stonington)

In a town (which is actually not a town) full of  tourist destinations, you might think a small drawbridge wouldn't earn the status of a beloved attraction. In Mystic, you'd be mistaken. People come from all over to watch the bascule bridge connecting the Groton and Stonington sides of Mystic go up, letting water traffic pass by and creating a waiting line of vehicles and pedestrians, then go down again. This 1920 bridge carried streetcars in its first few years of use; though those are gone, the bridge retains the look of a curiosity from another age.

There's an ice cream shop perfectly situated for bridge-watching, and downtown Mystic both east and west of the river is usually bustling with people shopping for everything from books to accessories or visiting one of a long list of highly rated restaurants. That's all as nice as it sounds, but as in many parts of Connecticut, the best part might just be wandering the waterfront and its historic neighborhoods. (Make sure to get off of Route 1 and see the side streets.) If you're exploring the area near the bridge itself, I strongly recommend leaving your car and walking; other major highlights like Mystic Seaport and Mystic Aquarium, as well as Olde Mistick Village, are slightly further away.

Route 185 Bridge (Farmington River, Simsbury)

The bridge that carries Route 185, aka Hartford Road, across the Farmington River is officially named the Bataan Corregidor Memorial Bridge, but I've never heard anyone call it that. I've never heard anyone call it anything. It's not grand or long or high. It's not ornate or particularly old (it dates from 1947.) Yet as soon as you spot it, you're instantly struck with a sense of calm and an appreciation for the simplicity of the countryside. This is not one of the scary bridges. And Simsbury is not exactly the countryside - it's a large suburb, and Route 185 is the domain of numerous stressed-out commuters. But the town is a perfect example of how rural and suburban can blend so nicely in Hartford County, and this humble green steel bridge seems to tie it all together.

The main (if not the only) reason people normally visit this bridge on purpose is located in the little park across from Nod Road. It's easy to drive over the bridge multiple times and completely miss this attraction, despite it being very, very big. It's the Pinchot Sycamore, and at 23 feet, 7 inches in circumference, it's Connecticut's largest tree. After you see the tree, cross the bridge to Hopmeadow Street to find Simsbury's historic and bustling downtown. Or head to Rosedale Farms and Vineyards, a favorite of photographers looking for that perfect winery shot. And then, of course, there's the Route 185 Bridge's more famous relative, the gorgeous Old Drake Hill Flower Bridge. Simsbury is a great place to walk, and if you're biking, it might be even better.

West Cornwall Covered Bridge (Housatonic River, Cornwall - Sharon)

Perhaps the most picture-ready of Connecticut's covered bridges, and right up there with those in other New England states too, this barn-red wooden covered lattice truss bridge crosses the Housatonic River in Litchfield County. Though this bridge was built in the late 19th century (and modernized in the 1960s and '70s), a series of earlier bridges have connected the small towns of Cornwall and Sharon (West Cornwall is a part of Cornwall) since sometime in the late 1700s. At 15 feet wide, the bridge can only accommodate one car at a time, so drivers on Route 128 (also called the Sharon-Goshen Turnpike) have to take turns. This works out remarkably well, considering how dangerous it seems when you first encounter the system, and adds to the quaintness of the whole experience.

The area surrounding the bridge is simply beautiful (the phrase "unspoiled by time" may pop into your mind as you drive.) On the Cornwall side, you can still see the building once used as the toll house (which I mentioned in my post about the toll house in Plymouth.) It now houses one of a handful of businesses clustered together on these pleasantly curving roads. Drive the other way, towards the New York border, and you'll reach the center of Sharon,* a classic Connecticut small town laid out so its buildings charmingly line up around the green and continue temptingly down little side-streets.

Arrigoni Bridge (Connecticut River, Portland - Middletown)

The delicate, sky-blue Arrigoni Bridge often comes up in rush-hour traffic reports, but when it's not bothering delayed central Connecticut commuters, it's a lovely landmark that can be appreciated from many vantage points. Completed in 1938, this through arch bridge connects a city known for college students and cupcakes to a town that mostly remains off the tourist radar. Its gently curving steel outline seems to float above Route 17 and Route 66 as they cross the water, and at almost 50 feet wide, it manages to evoke the wide-open sort of river crossing you might expect to find in the Midwest rather than spanning the Connecticut River.

Portland, small in population and not-so-small in area, boasts some architectural surprises (two octagon houses in a row!) and looks like a graceful mix of old river city, comfortably blue collar town, and former industrial center. (The main concern was the brownstone quarries, which provided the raw material for landmark buildings in numerous major East Coast cities.) On the other side of the bridge is Middletown, home of Wesleyan University and numerous cultural institutions. For specifics, click to see why I included Middletown in a previous "Top Five" - 5 Underrated Small Connecticut Cities. From the riverfront near Middletown's broad, welcoming Main Street, you can see traffic crossing the Arrigoni Bridge up above. And you'll also see the bridge if you glance up from Route 9 at that strange moment when it morphs unexpectedly from a highway to a local road complete with traffic lights. This arrangement may be changed eventually, because it is ridiculous, but for now, it's a uniquely weird Connecticut driving experience.


*The town centers of both East Haddam and Sharon are high on my list of places to write proper blog posts about in the future!

Heirloom Market at Comstock Ferre

Imagine one of America's oldest seed companies combined with a grocery store and cafe featuring local and organic foods, situated in beautiful historic buildings in one of the prettiest towns in Connecticut. If you imagined correctly, you'll be picturing Heirloom Market at Comstock Ferre.

Variously called "the oldest continuously operating seed company in New England" or "the oldest continuously operating seed company in the United States" or "one of the oldest seed companies in the United States," Comstock Ferre has been in the seed business since 1820. Or perhaps 1811. Whatever, it's wicked old, okay? The seeds are still here, in colorful packets arranged on old-fashioned wooden shelving in the market's upper level, but it's not just gardening supplies that lure passers-by to this serene space on Main Street in Wethersfield.

Downstairs, there are baskets of organic produce and shelves stocked with healthy grocery items and locally-made foods. There's also a little cafe selling fresh juices, coffee and tea, baked goods, and more.

The decor is as rustic and adorable as you'd expect. (You did imagine vintage farming equipment suspended from the ceiling in that little exercise I gave you above, right?) People work on their laptops in a bright little nook by the door, and children play among the outdoor tables near stands full of plants for sale.

While I was sitting in the sun under a red umbrella outside of Heirloom Market, it occurred to me that if this place was located in New York City, you'd have to shove ten people out of the way just catch a glimpse of a seed packet and you wouldn't even dream of getting to sit down to eat your food. But luckily for us, it's not.

5 Connecticut Mill Towns Worth Visiting

FORMER WILLIMANTIC LINEN COMPANY/AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY BUILDING

Many small (and not so small) Connecticut towns once revolved around their mills. I'm referring not to the humble grist mills of the early English settlers, but to the stone and brick behemoths of the Industrial Revolution. Though the industries that brought them to life have mostly moved away now, these imposing buildings still dominate a landscape that ranges from urban to rural. They have been called Connecticut’s cathedrals.

There are many worthy mill towns to choose from, and it was difficult to pick just five. Rest assured that on any aimless drive through the Nutmeg State, especially its eastern half, you're very likely to encounter a mill building, whether crumbling or newly restored, standing beside the rushing river that once powered its machines. It's also probable that you'll see, whether you recognize them or not, the houses that were the bosses' stately mansions and the rows of cottages where workers lived. I picked these five towns because each has a distinct atmosphere and shows off its historic mills in a different way. And, they are all located close enough to one another that it would be easy to combine them into a self-guided, mill-themed tour, to be done in one jam-packed day or stretched out over a week.

Willimantic (The Museum)

Willimantic, which feels like a funky little college town, is probably best known for its frog bridge. As you cross it, you notice that the famous frogs are posed atop spools of thread - that's because this place, nicknamed Thread City, was once home to multiple cotton mills, including the American Thread Company, at one time the state's largest employer. The Windham Textile and History Museum - also called the Mill Museum - offers a glimpse into the world of a 19^th century mill village. Inside former American Thread Company buildings, original machinery and re-created living quarters recall the lives of mill managers as well as immigrant workers, who came here from all over Europe and beyond. Exhibits explore various aspects of the textile industry in Connecticut and America. While you're there, don't miss Windham Mills State Heritage Park.

Apart from its industrial history, there's usually something going on in Willimantic, from Victorian house tours to street festivals. And there's always something interesting to see. Add the Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum to your itinerary, stroll down the colorful Main Street and stop at some stores and restaurants, or peruse willimanticdowntown.org for more ideas.

Putnam (The Trail)

Putnam is an old-fashioned small town that's increasingly becoming known as an antiques and arts destination with an ever-expanding list of new restaurants. It also has two lovely short walking trails, one focused on the mills that once harnessed the power of the Quinebaug River and the other dedicated to that river and its impressive falls. The River Mills Heritage Trail winds for just over a mile past six historic mill buildings, where workers transformed yarn into cotton cloth. Some of these buildings have been, or are being, restored and re-purposed. The River Trail, two miles long, provides a different vantage point for viewing the town, the Quinebaug, and the waterfalls. The two connecting trails are clearly marked, but this (PDF) map, also available at many downtown merchants, shows the details.

Downtown Putnam is small and very walkable, with plenty of free parking. You can't miss the large antiques stores that dominate the area, but there are some sweet smaller shops and art galleries here too. There's also the Bradley Playhouse, and a cute little farmers' market on Saturdays. Though it's still somewhat of a bare-bones site, discoverputnam.com will give you an idea of your options. And from Putnam, the relatively bustling center of Connecticut's Quiet Corner, it's just a short (and stunning) drive to the even quieter towns like Woodstock and Pomfret.

Plainfield (The Historic Districts)

Plainfield might sound agricultural and look unassuming, but this town once clanged with the sounds of heavy machinery from the mill villages that now anchor separate historic districts here. The Lawton Mills, Central Village, and Wauregan Historic Districts all preserve a slice of 19th and 20th century industrial life, complete with imposing mill buildings and their accompanying housing. In Lawton Mills, Railroad Avenue will take you to what feels like a town paused in time. In Central Village, the brick Plainfield Woolen Company Mill (listed separately on the National Register of Historic Places) stands proudly on Main Street. In Wauregan, further north, you'll find the old mill  by following Wauregan Road towards Chestnut Street.

These historic districts are not tourist attractions, but neighborhoods where regular people sill live and work. Although there are signs indicating their locations, you have to do some research on your own to know which streets to look for and which buildings to note. If you're into that kind of thing, the National Register of Historic Places registration and nomination forms for Lawton Mills, Central Village, and Wauregan will tell you everything you need to know. You won't regret taking the time; with a little imagination, Plainfield - the most off-the-beaten-path of the five towns listed here - might provide the best idea of what it was truly like when New England buzzed with looms and spindles.

Coventry (The Ruins)

Coventry, better known as the birthplace of Nathan Hale and host of Connecticut’s largest farmers’ market, has preserved what remains of its old mills in a unique and understated fashion. Find Mill Brook Park and the Mill Brook Park Trail, located right behind Main Street. Here, a little trail (if it can even be called that) meanders through peaceful woods and wetlands. Markers inform visitors about the eerie ruins of the former shoddy mill and the stone arches that were once part of a center of industry along the brook. The site of the dam, along with a few remaining buildings and brick chimneys, might help you imagine the shoddy mill, silk mills, and many other mills and factories that were once here. Or, you might find it almost impossible to picture this spot as anything but rural and serene.

While in Coventry, you can tour the Nathan Hale Homestead and experience the Coventry Farmers' Market, or follow a historic walking tour. Browse the antique stores on Main Street, or stop at the Visitors' Center at 1195 Main Street for more ideas.

Manchester (The Restoration)

Some of Connecticut’s old mills (including a few in Manchester) are gloriously dilapidated. (The old American Writing Paper Company building is one.) But many others have been preserved for their historic value and/or converted to condos, offices, or modern factories. Perhaps the best place to see both types of preservation is in Manchester. This town, home of the nation’s oldest woolen mill (they made the wool for the suit George Washington wore to his inauguration) has transformed vast complexes that once produced silk and paper into rental apartments and historic sites. The Manchester Historical Society has information about the Cheney Brothers National Historic Landmark District, in which you can find the Cheney Brothers silk mill buildings, now apartments with names like Lofts at the Mills, Ribbon Mill Apartments, Clocktower Mill Apartments, Velvet Mill, and Dye House. The district also encompasses several Cheney family mansions and hundreds of houses, plus facilities like schools and churches, that were constructed for use by the employees of the Cheney mills and their families. The Historical Society conducts walking tours, or you can explore the 175 acre district on your own. A few minutes away, the Hilliard Mills complex (that's the manufacturer of President Washington's suit) now houses businesses, and the old Adams Mill is home to a restaurant and banquet hall. To get a different sort of look at Manchester's mills (including the one in my American Writing Paper Company link), some are visible from the hiking trails along the Hockanum River.

Manchester - sometimes called Silk City - has a nice main street for wandering. The Manchester Historical Society lists other local museums and places of interest. And don't leave without going to the amazing Wickham Park (yes, I once wrote a blog post about Wickham Park. It's mostly pictures.) 


If you've read this far and still want more historic mill villages to visit in eastern Connecticut, check out Stafford Springs (in the town of Stafford), North Grosvenordale (in Thompson), Rockville (in Vernon), and Taftvile (in Norwich.)

And if you have your own favorite, please leave it in the comments!

5 of Connecticut's Prettiest Towns

TIMOTHY STARKEY HOUSE, 1720, NOW ESSEX COFFEE AND TEA COMPANY

First, a small announcement. If you'd like, you can click on the following link to follow my blog with Bloglovin.

OK, on to the post. There are many towns that could be called the prettiest in the Constitution State, depending on your taste and criteria, so I want to explain how I made this list. All of these towns have something about them that screams (politely, of course) classic Connecticut and classic New England. They have all maintained their historic character and although they have changed to varying degrees with the times, they have not been spoiled by the clutter of modern life. They're not so small that you can see everything in a few minutes, nor so big that they feel like cities. They have walkable centers where there's plenty to do and see, and they're also a short and easy drive from other attractions. These are not the towns that make you say, "It would be so nice to live here;" these are the towns that make you say, "People live here?!" These places are physically beautiful, whether you look at their architecture or their natural settings. A visitor dropped in one of these towns with no warning or plan would a) instantly reach for their camera, b) be able to entertain themselves immediately, and c) have no problem quickly developing an itinerary for a few hours or a long weekend.

Essex

Essex is best known for being the target of the British raid that led to "the single greatest loss of American shipping" in the War of 1812, and for having once been named the best small town in America. Located at the picturesque junction of the Connecticut River and Long Island Sound, Essex is made up of three villages: Ivoryton, Centerbrook, and Essex Village. For the most part, when people talk about how adorable this little port town is, they're talking about Essex Village. And it is pretty freaking adorable - from homes to businesses to municipal buildings to street signs, everything here is nautical and twee yet somehow understated too. Surprisingly, given how many times a day tourists must pause on the sidewalk to photograph their houses, the residents of Essex always seem to be smiling and friendly when you pass them on the streets.

the single greatest loss of American shipping

the single greatest loss of American shippingand for being cute...by the mouth of the CT River where it meets Long Island Sound

Some highlights of a trip to Essex might be: The Connecticut River Museum, RiverFest Cruises, the Griswold Inn, the restaurants and shops all along Main Street and nearby streets (best for little gifts and treats or a more "curated" selection of antiques), Riverview Cemetery, the Essex Historical Society, The Essex Steam Train and Riverboat, and Ivoryton Playhouse. But the best thing about Essex might just be walking down Main Street (note: typing "Main Street, Essex" into your GPS will put you in Centerbrook; when you're about to drive into the water, and the dividing line down the road is painted red, white, and blue, you're in the right spot) and admiring the cute.

For an equally adorable but more down-to-earth Connecticut River town, head north to Deep River. (North of Deep River is Chester - more on that below.)

Stonington Borough

So, this is a tad confusing. There's Stonington, the town in southeastern Connecticut on the Rhode Island border. There's also North Stonington, the town just north of Stonington, but don't worry about that for now. And then there's Stonington Borough, located within the town of Stonington. This mile-long peninsula ends at a point (called the Point) from which you can see the watery borders of three states (CT, RI, and NY.) Stonington Borough (I'm just going to call it Stonington from now on) manages to feel like an authentic fishing village and a watercolor rendering of a coastal paradise, both at the same time. It would be an exaggeration to call this place a hidden secret, but it is vastly under-appreciated and although it's now starting to appear on Best of New England-type lists, you might feel like you stumbled upon it thanks to the best wrong turn ever.

Stonington attractions include: Shopping and dining on and around Water Street, as well as at the Velvet Mill, the Old Lighthouse Museum, the Captain Palmer House, the town dock, DuBois Beach, Dodge Paddock/Beal Preserve, Saltwater Farm Vineyard, Stonington Vineyards, and Stonington Point. But don't forget to simply wander Water Street and Main Street, past Cannon Square and up and down all the little time-warped residential cross-streets between them.

If you get tired of Stonington, which might not be physically possible, you're just a few minutes' drive from two tourism powerhouses: Mystic, also partly located within the town of Stonington and home to the famous Seaport and Aquarium, and Westerly, RI, with its very popular beaches.

Litchfield

Litchfield is what people who have never been to Connecticut think of when they think of Connecticut. Preppy and pristine, with a town center consisting of tasteful white and brick buildings and a sedate green, you might mistake Litchfield for one of those little places where everything looks lovely but nothing ever happens. But in fact, there's a lot to explore in and around the town that lends its name to the Litchfield Hills. 

While in Litchfield, you might visit: The Tapping Reeve House and Litchfield Law School, Haight-Brown Vineyard, the restaurants and stores at the center of town (this is technically a borough within the town of the same name, as Stonington is) White Memorial Conservation Center, and Topsmead State Forest.

Any drive to or from Litchfield will be a scenic drive. Head for a nearby town like Kent, New Milford, New Preston, or Norfolk (or pick a random one, they're all cute, I promise.) Along the way, watch out for covered bridges, cows, and dramatically rolling farmland that will make you struggle to keep your eyes on the road. For especially astonishing views, drive around Lake Waramaug. To experience a more bustling part of the Berkshires, go north to Great Barrington, MA. All the towns listed here are beautiful year-round, but if you go to Litchfield County in the fall, be aware that everyone else will be going there too - and for good reason.

Chester

Chester calls itself a "small rural town" with roots in mills and shipbuilding, but that description doesn't prepare you for how European this charming Connecticut River Valley town feels. Narrow, hilly roads converge at the curiously curved Main Street, where brightly painted buildings house boutiques, galleries, and restaurants, and the little Pattakonk River swirls below. Chester is quiet, classy, and artsy - three adjectives that could describe many Connecticut towns. This one is unique enough that I had to include it here.
 
Some things to experience in Chester are: Chester Museum at The Mill, the Chester-Hadlyme Ferry, local marinas and lakes, and the Norma Terris Theatre.

Cross the historic Swing Bridge to find the postage-stamp sized town center of East Haddam, home to the Goodspeed Opera House and the Nathan Hale Schoolhouse. Gillette Castle and other nearby state are good spots from which to appreciate the natural beauty of this part of the state. Keep driving north and you'll reach Middletown (west of the River) and East Hampton (to the east), both of which offer their own array of sights and activities.

Wethersfield

This central Connecticut town where Washington rendezvous'ed with Rochambeau (yes, I've been listening to Hamilton ever since New York in November) is undoubtedly historic; it fights for the rank of oldest town in Connecticut, or "Ye Most Auncient Towne" in Connecticut, with nearby Windsor. Wethersfield is larger than the other places listed here, but the section sometimes called Old Wethersfield (essentially, the downtown) is village-sized. It conjures up storybook American scenes (you know, with sidewalks and lush green lawns and ice cream cones and stuff) with a particularly New England flavor.

Visitors to Wethersfield might stop at: The Webb-Deane-Stevens Museum, Heirloom Market at Comstock Ferre and the other stores and eateries nearby, Cove Park and the Cove Warehouse, the Ancient Burying Ground, the Buttolph-Williams House, and many other historic Wethersfield sites. You'll find many of these by simply walking the length Main Street and exploring Broad Street and other roads that look inviting. You'll be sure to pass perfectly preserved homes of eras past, and you'll want to stop and read the plaques on all of them.

Wethersfield is one of a collection of Hartford suburbs like Glastonbury, West Hartford, and Simsbury, that are more interesting and substantial than the word "suburb" implies. But the best way to extend a visit to this historic spot is to cross the town line into Hartford and take in the variety of cultures, cuisines, entertainment options, and landmarks of the capital city.

Hartford | The Long Tidal River

FOUNDERS BRIDGE, ROUTE 2

Sometimes the Connecticut River simply flows. Sometimes it splits itself into icy slabs that tumble along with the tide. Sometimes it breaks free from the boundaries we have imposed on it and rises up in protest. Sometimes it freezes solid.

One of my favorite places to observe the constant shifts of the Connecticut is at Mortensen Riverfront Plaza and Riverside Park in Hartford, and the connected Great River Park in East Hartford. The paved path that stretches out along the water here is part walking trail, part art gallery, and part tour of the city's infrastructure.

When it's time for one of the several annual festivals held here, the area fills with vibrant crowds. But on other days, depending on the time and weather, this place where wild nature meets concrete can be nearly empty. On the cold, windy morning when I took these pictures, I had the walk - and the river - almost all to myself.

In other places, this riverfront would be heavily marketed and developed for the purpose of drawing tourists (as much as possible on a river that floods regularly; that's at least one reason why Hartford is not San Antonio.) But in Hartford, and Connecticut, we don't publicize our assets. I'd bet that most people who cross the river on the Bulkeley Bridge (aka I-84), or follow its path on I-91, give little thought to what's below them. The next time you're traveling on the highway and you pass the river that lent its name to our state, take an hour to stop and see it, walk beside it, and check whether it's moving or standing still.

"LINCOLN MEETS STOWE"

FOUNDERS BRIDGE, ROUTE 2

BULKELEY BRIDGE, I-84

"TOWARD UNION LINES"

THE BLUE SIGNS TO THE LEFT MARK HISTORIC FLOOD LEVELS

CONNECTICUT SOUTHERN RAILROAD BRIDGE

"JACK"

Riverfront.org has directions and parking information as well as details about special events.